Ixchel’s Jalapeño Cream Rice with Eapazote

Renowned Mexican chef and culinary anthropologist from Tlaxiaco, Oaxaca, Ixchel Ornelas is known for promoting traditional Oaxacan cuisine. She learned about her culinary roots when she opened her restaurant, El Patio, 15 years ago. This recipe is dear to her heart. It reminds her of her grandmother and the strong legacy of women she comes from.

See recipe

Listen to Ixchel’s story

Learning to cook and the responsibility she feels to honor the women who taught her everything she now knows.

"Since I was young, I’ve always felt drawn to the market and everything around it. At eleven, I started cooking at home. I liked it—even though my mother didn’t. "

"I like experimenting. I don’t mind if something doesn’t turn out right—I do it again. I’m stubborn. I learn by observing, trying, and trying again. That has helped me a lot in life".

"My great-grandmother used to be Diego Rivera's cook. My grandmother learned everything from her. She died very young. I was six. But I have so many memories of her. There's a dish I have on the menu that honours one of her favourite recipes. I've called it: 'Rice in my grandmother’s style'. "

"It’s a rice with milk and epazote, with chopped tomato, finished with ranchero cheese, jalapeños and cream. I was able to recreate that aroma, that flavor. But it’s not just the rice—it’s everything I remember about her. What can I say? When I talk about her I get very emotional.

"When I opened the restaurant, the first thing people asked was: ‘What do people eat around here?’ At the beginning, I didn't know what to answer. I quickly realised there was a lot I had to learn. That's how I began documenting traditional recipes. And how I met Doña Lucha.

"She lives in Tlaxiaco. She is very well-known. She's the cook for all the town’s celebrations. Her knowledge comes from generations—mother, grandmother, great-aunt. I asked her to help me preserve it. To write it down. She said no. More than once. Until I told her: “One day you’ll be gone—and all of this will go with you.” She looked at me and said: “Alright. I’ll teach you.” It remains one of the greatest gifts of my life.

"Since then I've documented many other cooks. And I've learned that you can’t arrive anywhere without first recognizing others. Recognizing that they existed before you. And that they have knowledge different from yours. And that they can choose whether to share it or not—and you can choose whether to receive it or not."

Now every time I cook, I take a moment and ask for permission. I ask all the traditional cooks of Tlaxiaco to allow me to recreate their recipes. To allow me to carry the name of Tlaxiaco—not my own but Tlaxiaco's.

Listen to Ixchel’s story

Learning to cook and the responsibility she feels to honor the women who taught her everything she now knows.

The recipe

Jalapeño Cream Rice with Epazote

By Ixchel Ornelas

INGREDIENTS

4 cups water
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup minced white onion
2 garlic cloves minced
2 cups rice (arborio or basmati)
6 fresh jalapeño peppers
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/2 cup sour cream
1/2 cup queso fresco cut into 2 1/2-inch long batons
4 tomatoes roughly chopped
2 tablespoons of fresh epazote
salt

PREPARATION

Step 1
Slice the jalapeños in half lengthwise, scrape out all the seeds and ribs from each jalapeño with a spoon (a grapefruit spoon works great) and nestle a baton of queso fresco onto the filling of each one. Be careful to rinse your hands thoroughly after.

Step 2
Place the butter and oil in the base of a large saucepan and heat gently until the butter has melted. Add the onion and gently cook for 6-8 mins until softened. Stir in the garlic, tomato and epazote, then cook for 1 min more. Add the rice and cook, stirring, for 1 min.

Step 3
Add water and season with salt. Place the jalapeños and dollop the cream on top. Cover and simmer the rice over low heat until all of the liquid is absorbed (about 15-20 minutes).

Step 4
Turn off heat. Divide among 4 shallow bowls and garnish with some fresh epazote and a small bugambilia flower. Serve immediately.

Ixchel’s Jalapeño Cream Rice with Eapazote

Listen to Ixchel’s story

"Since I was young, I’ve always felt drawn to the market and everything around it. At eleven, I started cooking at home. I liked it—even though my mother didn’t. "

"I like experimenting. I don’t mind if something doesn’t turn out right—I do it again. I’m stubborn. I learn by observing, trying, and trying again. That has helped me a lot in life".

"My great-grandmother used to be Diego Rivera's cook. My grandmother learned everything from her. She died very young. I was six. But I have so many memories of her. There's a dish I have on the menu that honours one of her favourite recipes. I've called it: 'Rice in my grandmother’s style'. "

"It’s a rice with milk and epazote, with chopped tomato, finished with ranchero cheese, jalapeños and cream. I was able to recreate that aroma, that flavor. But it’s not just the rice—it’s everything I remember about her. What can I say? When I talk about her I get very emotional.

"When I opened the restaurant, the first thing people asked was: ‘What do people eat around here?’ At the beginning, I didn't know what to answer. I quickly realised there was a lot I had to learn. That's how I began documenting traditional recipes. And how I met Doña Lucha.

Now every time I cook, I take a moment and ask for permission. I ask all the traditional cooks of Tlaxiaco to allow me to recreate their recipes. To allow me to carry the name of Tlaxiaco—not my own but Tlaxiaco's.

Listen to Ixchel’s story

The recipe

Jalapeño Cream Rice with Epazote

INGREDIENTS

PREPARATION

Cooks in their Kitchens: A Quest to Solve a Mexican Culinary Paradox

gabrielalendo@gmail.com

Ixchel’s Jalapeño Cream Rice with Eapazote

Listen to Ixchel’s story

"Since I was young, I’ve always felt drawn to the market and everything around it. At eleven, I started cooking at home. I liked it—even though my mother didn’t. "

"I like experimenting. I don’t mind if something doesn’t turn out right—I do it again. I’m stubborn. I learn by observing, trying, and trying again. That has helped me a lot in life".

"My great-grandmother used to be Diego Rivera's cook. My grandmother learned everything from her. She died very young. I was six. But I have so many memories of her. There's a dish I have on the menu that honours one of her favourite recipes. I've called it: 'Rice in my grandmother’s style'. "

"It’s a rice with milk and epazote, with chopped tomato, finished with ranchero cheese, jalapeños and cream. I was able to recreate that aroma, that flavor. But it’s not just the rice—it’s everything I remember about her. What can I say? When I talk about her I get very emotional.

"When I opened the restaurant, the first thing people asked was: ‘What do people eat around here?’ At the beginning, I didn't know what to answer. I quickly realised there was a lot I had to learn. That's how I began documenting traditional recipes. And how I met Doña Lucha.

Now every time I cook, I take a moment and ask for permission. I ask all the traditional cooks of Tlaxiaco to allow me to recreate their recipes. To allow me to carry the name of Tlaxiaco—not my own but Tlaxiaco's.

Listen to Ixchel’s story

The recipe

Jalapeño Cream Rice with Epazote

INGREDIENTS

PREPARATION

Martha's Zuchini and Tortilla Lasagna

Cooks in their Kitchens: A Quest to Solve a Mexican Culinary Paradox

gabrielalendo@gmail.com